Jack Fieldhouse

Jack

Stats

Birthday: December 31st, 1975
Current Location: Squamish, British Columbia
Day Job: Elementary Teacher
Years in the Game: 18

About Me

Climbing has been an infatuation for me ever since I climbed my first route at age 15. I was lucky enough to be raised in Squamish, B.C., which has been named "Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada" and is home to some of Canada's best climbing. I enjoy many different types of climbing (sport, trad. and bouldering), but get my biggest kicks from finding, scrubbing and establishing new problems and routes. Squamish has a rainforest climate so the unclimbed granite is often completely enshrouded in a curtain of moss, which makes new-routing labour-intensive and exciting; you never know what you're going to get and that's part of the appeal to me. It's like being given a gift - shaking it to see if it's what you were hoping for and then getting to unwrap it and play, over and over again. If you haven't climbed in Squamish you should make a trip up here, it's an amazing place.

I am 34 years old and I'm a father of two, a husband, a Grade 1 teacher, and a coach. It's a quite a balancing act at times but I'm very happy with the life I've chosen. I fit climbing into my busy schedule whenever possible. I like to give back to the sport, and try to help out as much as I can with climbers' access initiatives; I love helping with trail building/maintenance and other positive activities that allow me to get my hands dirty.

I feel very lucky that my wife, Shannon, is also a teacher and climber. It's great to be able to share our holiday time together on climbing trips and other adventures. Bringing the kids along adds a fun element to our travels. We have our summers off, and during this time we enjoy showing others around our climbing playground. It's great to hang with our friends who come back to climb each summer when the temps get too high down south. We love the opportunity it gives us to meet up and climb with friends we've made from all over. I also feel very lucky to have a great group of friends, locally, who share our love of climbing and our enthusiasm for outdoors. Together, we're all adapting to and learning the tricks of climbing with our families. It's a fun time in our lives.

My other interests include whitewater kayaking, skateboarding, AT skiing, and mountain biking. I also really enjoy helping out with tweaking designs and product testing for companies in the outdoor industry and would like to thank the following companies for all the support they've given me over the years: Flashed crash pads, Five Ten shoes, Blurr clothing.

Posts by Jack:

Finally back to climbing.

During February while everyone around us was celebrating the Olympics my family and I packed our bags and left on a trip to Bishop, a favorite spot to visit with our kids.  We had a few good days and then revisiting an amazing line called Seven Spanish Angels I felt pain in my shoulder as I was locking off.  Later that night my shoulder got super inflamed and I realized that my climbing trip was pretty much done.  It was really disappointing but I had good friends and my family around me, so it was still nice to be in such and amazing place with good people.

When I got home I started rehabing the shoulder and mtn. biking to keep busy.  With all the new trail activity around Squamish there was loads of new riding for me to explore and I was having a blast.  I had just finished a ride and managed to have a clutsy awkward fall (I won’t go into details because it’s such a lame story) and tore my hamstring pretty badly. Luckily it didn’t require surgery but extensive rehab and down time.  Long and short of it, I haven’t climbed in over three and a half months and this Saturday I finally got back out there.

Bruising caused by torn hamstring.

I was totally apprehensive about getting out there too early and having a set back but I’ve also been dying be out on the rock again.  So, when a friend called and asked if I wanted to do an easy multi-pitch slab route I said yes, figuring it might help stretch out my hamstring and continue to breakdown the masses of scar tissue that had formed.

Fred Becky finishing yet another lap on the Apron.

We had a great day in the sun cruising up fun slabby granite and as we climbed I looked over to my left and caught sight of and gave a shout out to my friends Sonnie Trotter and Big Kevin who were also out enjoying the sun. A little later when we topped out I looked down to see none other than Fred Becky making his way up. Not bad for a guy in his late eighties.  Anyway, due to lost leg strength compromised proprioception, it turned out that the walk down was actually harder than the climb up and I took it really easy to avoid re-injury.

It felt great to be back out climbing in perfect weather after 3.5 months off.  This morning I woke up still excited and all I could think of was getting out again so I phoned my friend Marc Bourdon who is also rehabing a shoulder and we went out and did a handful of easy sport climbs at Chek Canyon. I’m so psyched to be climbing again!  Bouldering might be a while off yet because I’m not sure my leg would hold up to a fall but at least I’m making progress and getting closer to putting my Flashed mat to use.

Also, for those that are interested, Marc Bourdon’s new Squamish Bouldering Guidebook is due out any day now.  It’s loaded with new problems and areas and includes an area I’ve been developing called Paradise.  Check it out.

It's All Fun and Games Until Someone Loses a Lateral Collateral Ligament

The Bridge to Paradise     photo Nick Sopczak

The Bridge to Paradise photo Nick Sopczak

The early fall was amazing here in Squamish! Bone dry and cool temps aided by light winds. Conditions like this made it easy to find the psych, taken from me by the summer heat, and put it to good use up in Paradise Valley. The setting can be described as magical. Large, tight grained granite boulders strewn along the banks of a crystal clear stream surrounded by huge broad-leafed maple trees in all their fall glory. Perfection! This fall I establish over 50 new lines up there as well as showing some love to a few quality problems that were starting go green. Although we’ve been climbing up there since 2002, Paradise isn’t in a guidebook yet so it doesn’t see that much traffic. Sure people climb there regularly but not in the hoards you see at the Grand Wall boulders. I’m of two minds about it because it’s nice to climb in solitude yet without others climbing there and giving the problems the odd brushing, it will be reclaimed by the ever encroaching moss. I was heading up there everyday after teaching and on the weekends all fall. It was bliss. I was coming home tired but excited about new lines I’d found or problems I’d sent. Oddly enough, right before the rainy weather set in for what seems like forever, I was running a lap on one of my favourite problems up there called Phantom Menace and when I threw to the finishing edge I felt my finger tweak. I’m now nursing an injured lateral collateral ligament in my left ring finger.  It feels so lame to go from climbing everyday to nothing at all. I’m praying for this injury to heal up quickly so I can feel ready for our trip to Bishop in February. I’m also praying for some dry weather because even if I can’t climb I wouldn’t mind getting some more new lines ready to go for when I can.

Jack Fieldhouse

Simply Paradise   photo Nick Sopczak

Simply Paradise photo Nick Sopczak

Paradise Rail    photo Nick Sopczak

Paradise Rail photo Nick Sopczak

Crossing Tenderfoot Creek   photo Nick Sopczak

Crossing Tenderfoot Creek photo Nick Sopczak

Tongue and Lips   photo Nick Sopczak

Tongue and Lips photo Nick Sopczak

Phantom Menace   photo Nick Sopczak

Phantom Menace photo Nick Sopczak

Setting up on Phantom Menace   photo Nick Sopczak

Setting up on Phantom Menace photo Nick Sopczak

Tweaking on Phantom Menace...   photo Nick Sopczak

Tweaking on Phantom Menace... photo Nick Sopczak

Jack Fieldhouse Bio

Name: Jack Fieldhouse
Home: Squamish  (aka  Squamton), BC
Age: 33 years young
Zodiac Sign: Capricorn
Years in the game: 17 years.

Who has impressed you the most this last year? Climber or Non-climber…
A: That would have to be Mark Fraser of Flashed.  Doughboy to Whoa-boy! in 6 months!  No hungry bum pix for you, big guy!

Describe a time when someone helped your climbing?
A: I instantly felt better about my climbing when I dragged fellow team member, Josh Haynes, up a multi-pitch on the Stawamus Chief in Squamish last summer.  Don’t get me wrong, the guy can  pull the horns off a bull and bust open a can of Whoop-Ass on low stone but get him up high and you’d better bring a diaper because it scares the shizz out of him!

As a Flashed Athlete, how have you adapted to your new life with the paparazzi?
A: I’ve got to admit it’s been hard.  You never know when someone might jump out and take a compromising photo of you.  It might even be someone you call your friend! Recently, I’ve had to go into hiding or use disguises.  Currently, I’m employing a fat-suit and a thinning hair-line  wig, in hopes of evading the ever present cameras.

Where do you see your climbing going?
Right down the toilette, honestly!  That said, I’m still having lots of fun and I love it as much as I ever did.

Seriously, though I’m looking forward to lots of trips with the family and trying to keep up to my kids.