Ian Dory

Ian

Quote :“No Fear Just Climbing” Trainer J. Wildmen About me I have been climbing most of my life from the day I was born I have been traversing out of my crib to climbing the up the chimney of our home. So, climbing to me, has always just defined me. I have to thank and give credit to my dad for introducing and teaching me about this sport and taking me to the local gym in Fort Collins, Inner strength Rock Gym. Because of him I was able to pursue my passion and when my brother got his driver licenses he started taking me to Rifle, the Poudre Canyon and places in Utah. I have spent a lot of time the last few years climbing with my brother, James Hickey, Josh Mitchell, Matty Hong and more recently Dave Graham, Jon Cardwell, Andre Di Felice and more amazing climbers whom all are great people that bring lots of psyched energy for the sport. Motivation is what drives me, passion is what makes me and sending is what I live for! Goals I have been pushing myself hard to continue bouldering v14 and will continue to pull for the most beautiful climbs I can find as well as cleaning and developing amazing lines. I also want to one day stick my first v15… someday soon. Personal projects I have include this amazing roof called Flux for Life at Endo Valley along with many other boulder problems located there. On a rope my goals consist of climbs at Rifle such as Lung fisher, Plant X, and Living in Fear. I also have a few projects at the Poudre including what my dad calls “The Ian Dory Project”… I am also looking to bolt my very own sport line in Australia with Dave. One of my biggest goals in the upcoming years as a climber is to win a World Cup, and continue making the US Bouldering Team. Nutrition focus and training at Summit Strength with my trainer Brad Jackson to become the best climber I can be from the rock to the competitions has been a vital key lately. I want to become the best that I know I can be as an athlete. Interests Besides climbing & training I work for my dad on the farm, something I have grown to very much enjoy. I also enjoy music; I play the drums and piano when I have free time. But all in all, my interests involve the outdoors, rocks, developing, and as you know... climbing. Sponsors Something From the Farm, Five Ten, Verve, Flashed, Petzl, & Deuter Favorite Climbing Area: Joes Valley in UT, a place where matter what happens its’ always a good time! The rock is some of the most beautiful I have seen in the states plus, there aren’t many restrictions, you can shoot guns if you want, and there is still so much developing potential, it just needs a little vision... Favorite Climbs: Fed in the A (5.14b) Ten Sleep, WY Red Tag (V10) Hueco, Texas Mask of God (V13) Joes Valley, UT Omaha Beach (5.14a) Red River Gorge, Kentucky Favorite Movie Despicable Me Core Shooter

Posts by Ian:

Wheel of Life

Wheel of Life!

The Wheel of Life was not just a hard rock climb nor was it just a big number, for me the Wheel of Life was an experience. It took me from one side of the world and back again. When I got on to my flight leaving LA I had no clue I would send such a majestic piece of rock. Climbing for me hasn’t been about how hard or how bad ass, but for me climbing has been an addiction and a passion. My motivation was created from the beauty, the people and the movement that climbing encompasses. A mind game mixed up with strength, muscle resistance, power, and an un-relentless battle with your body.

On my first trip to Australia I had the chance to watch James Kassay work the Wheel of Life. This was my first taste of the Wheel and one of many days spent at the Hollow Mt. Cave. James’s effort was inspiring to watch and he successfully climbed the Wheel during that trip. He worked this climb for ten years which seems like a massive epic, but it shows dedication that many people could never understand.

To be honest I felt confident on my second trip to Australia because I knew I had improved as a climber and as a person.  Dave, Nalle, and I wasted no time and started working the Wheel as soon as we got to Australia. Each of us made good links on the boulder after only a few days of effort, which gave me the confidence I needed to top out the Wheel. It was not until Dave and I spent a day working the last section of the boulder when we unlock a system that made the moves more about resistance and less about power.  I want to say that Dave Graham was a massive help to me when I was working the sections of the boulder. We spent hours together climbing and critiquing the movement so that the final product was as efficient as possible. Those days were  the most memorable and I will never forget how much fun we had in the process.

When I sent the Wheel of Life it was one of those days when you go climbing with your friends, you try hard, have fun, and don’t put any pressure on yourself.  The energy that day is something that I wish I could recreate every climbing day. June 17, 2012 is one for the record books and for me a personal best day of climbing. When I think I can’t do something I will always think of that day and the way I felt before I sent and after.

 

Special thanks to:  Jes, Remi, Dave, Nalle, Dad, Eddie 

Arkansas, Spring Break 2012

Spring Break 2012

After attending my first semester of college at Front Range
Fort Collins I was more than ready to head down to Arkansas to climb with
friends. My spring break was a jumbled mess from the start, all my friends had
different spring break schedules and I was left alone to find someone to drive
down to Arkansas with. Finally, I found my partner Kona (Jes & my dog) she
seemed psyched so we hit the road and I finished setting at Miramont. Thanks to
some books and psych we made it close to Witichata, KS by 1am. We crashed in
the car for a few hours and then hit the road early. Kona and I made it to Cole’s
house by 3pm and then joined by my friend Kyle McCabe, from NH. Having just
driven many hours we were all content to just do some nice warm ups which
included some good 5.10s and 5.12s. This was a great warm-up for the projects
we were to try later.

Arkansas is really growing on my and the endless undeveloped
crags and boulders keep astonishing me. The days were hot during this trip and
most of the walls hit the shade later in the day. Which no one complained about
since we could sleep in a bit, but we did climb every day until dark, a muerte.

On this trip I got the chance to put up some amazing climbs bouldering
and finally taking an FA a sweet route.

***** FA 13c,
Private land in Arkansas.

Cole Fennel took me
this area that had a beautiful wall filled with sport climbs. I was given the privilege
to climb on what is said to be the best of Arkansas sport climbing. Thank you
to Cole Fennel and the Owner of this private property for giving me this
opportunity.

The beginning section of this climb had been done, but the extension
was still a project and I was psyched to see what I could do on this amazing
line. The route was brilliant with sand stone streaking from orange to black. Each
move was fun and challenging. After giving it a really good flash attempt, and
falling during the crux I rested 20 min then bagged the climb. The lower crux
involves a hard flip to an under cling and dead point to a crimp. You do get a
decent rest and then gear up for the next crux. Moving off a left hand crimp
and an ok right foot you fire out to a gaston you wish is better than it
actually is. Left foot needs to power off of a slopper.  Stay calm and bring first your right foot and
then your left as you set up for a hard match. Move your hand and stand tall
for the red point crux and with all your might stab into a good crimp and set
your heel for a dynamic jump to a jug (relief!!!) Once you give it good shake cruise
up the 12a section and clip or jump for victory.

Tatiana v12

Near the sex boulder (which has the climb Abb-lounge v9 or
10- we climbed quickly) there is an arête that Cole showed us which has been a long
standing project. After some brushing I knew that the line would go and was
psyched to spend time figuring out the beta with Kyle and Cole. After an hour
or longer of beta configuration and a day to let it all soak in I climbed the
boulder which I called Tatiana Arête v12.

The climb itself is
amazing and I can’t say that I have done many of that nature.  You start under this roof and move out on
good holds with power. You match the underling and get a massive toe hook above
your head as you move your right hand to the lip. Then you mach toe hooks and
heel next to your right hand. With you left hand still in the underling you
bump to a crimp and set your left foot on a bad hold and go big to a right hand
side pull on the lip of the arête. Don’t breath as you mach your toe next to
your left hand in the underling, then bringing your body and left hand to the
arête. Stabilize as you release your left foot and launch to the lip with one
last burst of power.

 

There are still many projects that I can’t wait to tap into
on my next visit. Thanks Cole for taking the time to show me around for six
days straight and the hospitality you’ve shown Kona and I. Next time, lets plan
for at least one rest day involving many Sapporos!

Arkansas

 Arkansas

Ever since I watched videos of Dave, Jon and other friends climbing in Arkansas making a trip down to check out the amazing sandstone was on the list.  Nalle and I were both engaged and psyched with the idea of climbing, developing and getting to know the southeast. After a brief stop in Hueco Tanks, TX we were all motivated to climb on the friendly sandstone of Arkansas. After speaking with our contact Cole Fennel about some of the new bouldering areas that needed development, we knew that Arkansas was going to be A-MAZING.  

We arrived at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch pretty late because pulling a camper can take time plus some.  The camp grounds at night were pretty tricky to maneuver a van and trailer. I proceeded to spend the next half hour in drive and reverse going up and down gravel hills trying to figure out where, the hell I should park my trailer. Frustrating to say the least! Finally after running into one of the ranch guides I got “good” beta to the camp sites. I then had to commit to drive my camper up a very steep bumpy dirt road which I ended up being wrong. Forcing me to back down a very narrow steep dirt road and to top everything off I now began to attract a crowd of people who stood on their balconies to stair and watch… I thought that world cup competition was presser.

Grand Dragon

As v7’s go this is one of the better ones I have ever climbed, this climb is the epitome of a beautiful line. The problem starts on good crimps high off the ground, you might need to stack some pads to start this one, then it moves across a perfect rail makes it way up and left with comfortable holds. It involves technical foot work, the colors scheme is stunning finishing with a tall top out. This is a must do and is definitely worth telling mom about especially if she’s into high ball boulders.

Glass Bowl

This is a compact fun boulder but, even more fun if you like pulling on monos. It starts close to the ground on small awkward holds and might take someone a few tries to figure out the first move, unless you can power your way into the balance point. After the crux first move you grab a good left hand you lock down, and grab a good crimp at arms reach. Next, bring your foot up and grab another crimp with the left hand. Find your “zen” as you stick your finger in the mono for a last showy move to a sloper and top out. If you’re going to try Grand Dragon you might as well do this climb they’re both area classics.

Lost In The Hood

Lost In The Hood was great and I was really happy with how fast I could tick this problem, a personal best for me. V14 in a couple hours! Lost in the Hood fit my style and with Nalle Hukkataival to bring in more energy it’s not hard to believe that we took it down. This is a short powerful line with the first move being the crux. You have a jug for your right hand and a really small crimp for your left hand. You place your foot almost next to your hand and do a hard power move to a crimp. You next make a blind foot move and stand to a small, but good crimp. Then make a full extension move to a left hand crimp, do another hard blind foot move, drop you right hand down and reach a key foot placements. You then make a hard match and go big for the finish hold! Top out on an un-cleaned high ball finish. A stunning line and a great boulder! 

Fred’s Roof

Being one of my better flashes in the dark I have to say that it was great to have good friends there to shed some light on the problem, literary. With some love I think that this boulder could top out and I wish I had more time to spend in this cave. Definitely classic worth doing!

Christmas Rest…

Jes and I flew home for the holidays, it was a quick needed rest and always great to spend time with our families.

Misdirection

While being shown some of the bouldering areas around Arkansas, Cole Fennel pointed out this project located at the Heaven Boulders. At first glance you think that it’s a hard sharp crimp move and not much fun but, after giving the move one go we decided that the boulder would be best climbed as a dyno. Not many boulders have an all points off dyno like this one. You think it’s just about jumping but, no it’s actually a hard dead point move that takes some practice. Both holds you go to are crimp jugs but kind of separated from one another. You have to grab one and just hope your other hand finds the mark. I can’t wait to see this on the video.  

Better Babies Club

Watching talented climbers make moves look super easy is amazing it makes you feel as if you too can easily make that move, very deceiving.  This boulder is located on the HCR by the Idaho boulders, the tall arête has to be one of the more obvious fetchers in the area. Tall and scary, this boulder is more technical then anything and if your feet can’t stay on then you can’t. We first found the boulder while taking a day for Jes and Amy to enjoy some of the better moderates. The boulder is tall and scary with some awkward moves high off the ground which adds some fear factor but, if you can suer come that it’s a great climb.

Flash Mode

Another great accent Nalle and I put up back to back, in the dark, while others held headlamps for us to climb is located at the Heaven Boulders.  this line is a few crimp moves out a roof to a big jump off a sharp slot. The crux is holding the swing after a dynamic move. You top out on less then clean sloppers but, we can see this being an area classic soon enough. Thanks again Cole for showing us this area!

Illusion of Safety

This was the big one and the king line of our trip. Taking a few hours of cleaning and vision this amazing problem unfolded after working a difficult project next to it. A tall beautiful arête with a hard committing lock off at the end gives you goose bumps to just looking at it. Requiring many pads and a rope to rig them in the right spot this climb is not for the faint of heart. The hard crux is at the start but, you get pumped as you move up the twenty five foot boulder and top out on less than perfect protection. The starting holds are obvious and amazing. Each move is unique involving power and technical movement. I was more than psyched to have completed this boulder after our first cleaning session we thing the grade is around v13.

Off the Rails

What a line complete with great movement! This is one of the best boulders in the country and is one of the highlights of our trip. Amazingly obvious starting holds leading you along incredibly fluid movement to a technical mantle. It is an area classic and was a pleasure to climb.

Trackman

While spending time with Cole bouldering we checked out what he called the Daniel Woods Boulder. This boulder had two lines on it, Trackman and Stackin Paper both Nalle and I flashed Trackman back to back and never tried the other. A really good climb with some hard compression and a cool hand jam if you can find it. This boulder is all by itself and, worth checking out if you’re in the area.

Anti-Hero

Last day with only hours before we packed up the camper Nalle and I headed out for one last session on the sandstone. With almost no beta, less psych, and even less skin. It was going to take some seriously good music to get this day going. Never the less we rallied and both sent after a few epic goes and probably the worst possible conditions you could think of. No water, every hold in the sun and not knowing that one of the key holds had broken off in the past, topping our was heaven like. We could not believe we actually pulled it off.

Tember and Fancy Pants

During a portion of the filming with Chuck Fryberger Films I got the chance to work with one of the ranches horses Fancy Pants. He was trained by Tember Hursh, one of the guides at the ranch. It was  awesome getting to get to know Tember and Fancy Pants during our trip and was one of the ultimate highlights, especially since she gave me the chance to canter and gallop, so sick! I am definitely looking forward to going back and hanging out with Fancy Pants some time soon. Fancy Pants was pro and did everything we ask without question. Never once did he get spooked that I had a crash pad on my back, cranes swinging around, and a crowd of people watching. Thanks again Fancy Pants and Tember for the life experience! Jes and I keep thinking about getting a horse now, some day.

FILMING

I feel very lucky to have friends like Nalle and Amy who flew across the world to climb around the country with Jes and I. Our trip started in Utah and ended in Arkansas where I got the chance to film with Chuck Freburger films. We worked with Nellson and Ben for a part in the upcoming film called The Network look for it this summer! We filmed the new boulders we put up and had a great time just messing around when we created a skits and filmed the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch madness. I want to say a special thanks to Morgan McNeil for getting us set up with four-wheeler’s and  guns on our days off of climbing. I can’t wait to get back and throw down on some more projects and blast off some assault-rifles with friends.

HCR

Camping and Climbing at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch was sweet joy and I have nothing but good things to say about the guides and facilities at the ranch. It was nice to hang out in the barn and get to know the crew that makes the ranch what it is.  Thanks again for the hospitality and making our trip so great.

Joe’s Valley

Fixing the Camper
With October on the farm being so busy and life’s demands increase it’s a hard time to fit in little things like fixing a destroyed 1963 camper from the mob of teenage boys who have been “chilling” in it while I was away on my last trip. So Jes & I had to kick it into high gear to prep for the up coming road trip with our friends Amy Langemore from Australia and Nalle Hukkataival from Finland. Ripping the back end of the camper off, replacing all the rotten wood, adding new insulation, and revamping the interior what seemed to be a ‘simple project’ began feeling like we opened a box of worms.

Creating a watertight, wind resistant home base camper the ultimate goal, and with my “rough” carpentry skills I can only hope that two bottles of silicon can help me achieve rain protection. It only took a few trips to the store and about a week of work to achieve the decked-out camper complete with chalk board paint, new flooring, and a now water proof back frame.

Climbing Adventure
After my last climbing trip with Nalle to Australia where we were developing and exploring the Northern Grampians with Dave Graham, we now are taking another trip around the south western part of the country bouldering at some of my favorite crags & stepping foot in a new one. We started in Joes Valley where we were exploring for new projects and cleaning up some unsent futuristic classics. It’s always great to climb with good friends but with so little time Nalle, Jes, Amy and I are trying to focus on what lines inspire us most! Even with the outstanding rock quality in Joe’s Valley it’s been hard to tell whether some of the amazing lines we‘ve found are even possible. After discovering, envisioning and cleaning line after line its always a bit of a bummer when you find out that the moves we’ve previously thought possible were way harder than predicted.

Pimp Mode Project:
Grateful I’ve gotten the opportunity to experience years of climbing in Joe’s Valley I was ready to begin adding great lines here. I always wanted to check out some of the “harder” projects and with Nalle in town it seemed like a good time to test the limits. With so much talk about what is supposedly one of the best projects in the US I was really psyched to see what Nalle had to say about this black wall beauty.

Taking us a few hours of cleaning and building a landing the time finally came when we could give what we call the Pimp Mode Project a try. Many falls later we definitely think that this climb goes! it’s just a matter of time investment and not getting injured on the super small crimps.

Black 45 Project
After working every climb on our long list of projects and repeatedly getting shut down we were losing faith that Joe’s had projects that we could send before our time was up. When shopping at the classy Food Ranch we ran into an old friend who told us about this amazing overhanging wall that he had found close to the river. Naturally, it sparked our interest and set out on the hunt the following day. It took us a sometime to find, but when we finally found it we were psyched. A beautiful 45 degree wall black with solid heinous hold. Every move seemed possible. With only one day left of our trip to invest in this new climb it’s still hard to say what the grade is or even the beta is. Never the less when the climb becomes established its going to be hands down one of the hardest lines in the canyon and will not likely see quick repeats.

Who the f*** is Trent Project
Trent’s Mom is one of the best & well-known boulders in Joe’s Valley. It can only be described as amazing. Personally I never realized what a brilliant project was right next Trent’s Mom. After cleaning we started working it. This project stood out the most to me because I found the colors, holds, and powerful movement fun and fitting to my style. This climb is definitely easier if you have a larger span and involves a massive lock off to a gaston. Someone would say that your hips would take a beating while working this boulder but worth it.

Down Jacket
Every climb is time and energy, so unfortunately sometimes our precious skin is put towards what could only be described as almost cool. This is how climbs like Down Jacket are born. I’d say it’s not the worst climb ever but not one worth writing home about. We first heard about the boulder during one of our warm up sessions when a climber walked over and pointed it out to us. It’s located across the river from the Angler Boulder and right of Low Tide check it out if you have the time.

Life of Fritz
During the Thanksgiving break a few of my friends came out from Boulder to get some climbing in during their school break. Matty Hong and his crew drove all through the night and got to our camp site only hours before the snow and wind picked up. Luckily the intense weather stopped and all was good in the hood when the sun finally showed its face. I gave him & his crew as extensive of a tour that I thought was possible considering the limited time given.

Warming up on Brain Damage, a high ball v6, seemed like a great way to start their trip. Shortly after that we added a very nice first accent to the area (right of Brain Damage) that we called Life of Fritz. Inspiration taken from this little tea cup Chihuahua we know. This boulder starts in an already “established” v8 but then works along a very nice head wall to a few hard moves around a roof. We gave this problem a v9 grade. If you’re in the area test it out and let us know what you think.

Sand Storm
Sometimes its hard to find new “moderate” boulder problems in an established area like Joe’s but, Nalle and I got lucky enough to find an amazing line which climbs at about v8/9. Located above the Beyond Life boulder it is one of the sweetest-longer climbs in the canyon. I can see this boulder becoming very popular and a great addition to the classics in the area. The boulder is over 20 moves long and a perfect landing that allows climbers to falls and be safe (thanks to our intense efforts during a windstorm that gave us the inspiration for this name.) I am very much looking forward to seeing what feedback people give us about this stunning line.

Black Out
I want to bring up this line because I think that the boulder is one of the most beautiful blocks around, with its super strong holds and its stunning solid back wall it is one of the better harder line’s in the area. Each move is not super difficult on its own but when put together the boulder requires balance, power and foot work which is why I agree with grade 8b. Definitely worth writing home about so get your guns out and give it a try before you leave the area.

Camouflage
After having a great day of climbing and sticking a few new climbs like Playmate of the Year and Battle Toads, Nalle and I decided to give a few tries on this traverse project located on the back of the Death Scream boulder. We felt the holds and decided to put on our own climb shoes and test it out. The moves are pretty technical and dynamic move. Nalle sent quickly after the climb was clean and ready to go but, It took me a few minutes of effort. We thought the grade stands around v9/10.
More to come from Hueco…

World Cup Boulder,Colorado

Rumney

  After Nor’easter it was great having some downtime and making our way to the outdoors in New Hampshire. To begin my preparation for the World Cup I thought clipping bolts in Rumney was a great idea, but the rain and bugs suggested otherwise. New England has very fickle weather and when the climbs I consider myself close to sending are short and powerful, weather is a large factor. It feels like every time I visit Rumney it’s always hot and raining, sigh.

 In this upcoming World Cup I know there are going to be some amazing climbers in the upcoming Boulder, CO World Cup and all I can do is stay focused on my training and relaxed. The Lead World Cup will be taking place at my local home gym, Movement (climbing and fitness.) I know the route’s will be powerful, short and consistently difficulty to the top. Since I have had little time clipping bolts, as I have been more focused on bouldering, I am not setting to high of an expectation on myself. However this doesn’t mean that I am going to hold back on the wall. “A MUERTE” is the expression I am going to compete by.

After almost 2 weeks out east Jes and I made the epic drive back to Fort Collins from New Jersey. And a road trip of that distance cannot be complete without  getting pulled over by a police officer, or 3. As far as I could tell there was no reason but. While crossing the border to Iowa on I-80, a police officer pulled up next to us, checked us out, then drove off; but then proceeded to slow down get behind us and flipped the lights on.  Great. After the usual license and registration, he told us that we did not use are blinker to change lanes! As far as Jes and I were concerned we DID use the blinker, but I suppose he needed an excuse. After he asked Jes to step out of the car and privately interviewed her I started questioning her I felt like a search was about to happen. First time for everything! He proceeded to ask if there was any drugs, large amounts of cash and or weapons in the vehicle. With a slight chuckle I answered “no” but, was taken back when he accused me of “looking nervous” which I replied, “I had never been questioned like this before.” He asked me to step out of the car while informing me that Jes had given him consent to search her car. Her car, her decision! But, I know she was right in complying because refusing to a search just brings more problems!

 So with nothing to fear but time to waste, I stepped out of the car and told him exactly what was in the car and who’s bags were who’s, where we came from where  we were going, introduced Kona (Jes & my dog,) so on and so forth. The search went on for about an hour! It soon began to involve a number of officers opening and closing every possible hiding spot in her car, the gas tank, the engine, the trunk, under the car, under the carpets, in the sun roof, places I wasn’t even aware of in the car it was amazing to watch. Then without a sorry or anything the cop sent us on our way. We resumed our 28hour drive home again.

World Cup Boulder, Colorado. 10/6/11

First day of the IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP…

 After experiencing Bouldering World Cups in Europe, Canada & the states, heading into Movement climbing gym for my first lead World Cup felt natural. I enjoyed seeing many of the same athletes from the other international competitions and it made have a sense of comfort.

  The first day was a red point format which means; that all competitors watch one another as they try the route. A route preview was given to all the competitors before the competition began. The World Cup began with 36 men and 24 women and two lead routes ranging from 13c- 14b. We all climbed the routes in order with a 6 minute period to complete each route. Ten men and ten women were eliminated from the roster, and the rest moved on to semi-finals.

  Semi-finals began the next day around 10am with some truly talented climbers such as Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Jakob Schubert. I, myself, did make it to Semis and was excited to be there among some of the strongest climbers competing again. Only 6 men and 6 women were chosen to move on from Semis to Finals and unfortunately I need to bring up my endurance for the next cup. No, I didn’t make it. But that didn’t take away my excitement when I learned my best friend and Boulder’s local, Matty Hong, made it to finals! Of course, seeing an American male and American female, Sasha DiGulian, in finals kept the crowd’s energy high.  The two American competitors did amazing and really made us all proud! Great job Sasha & Matty way to represent! From my point of view the Cup in Boulder, CO seemed to be a great success and with the Olympic officials keeping close tabs on our sport, for the possibility of joining the Olympic family in 2020, I hope this event shows the potential climbing can and will offer!

Nor’easter

Ne2c  Day before the before the comp:  9/22/11

After months of climbing out side with friends it’s time to shift gears and crush some plastic, in this year’s 2011 Nor’easter climbing competition and music festival / The North Face Open. The UBC pro tour is in Vermont, and the itch to take first place begins as I take on some of best of the best of the best.  Climbing out side is my passion and I love the feel of real rock but, cant wait to see what the dedicated crew at Ne2c throws at me. Plus the lights, the crowds, the energy, it’s a personal addiction of mine.

 For the Last several months I have been traveling with my fiancé Jes and climbing with some amazing people like Dave and Nalle. We have been busy climbing and developing a new area in Australia and I am now back in the states for the 3rd annual Nor’ester climbing competition. After climbing with such talent I’m hoping to take down (win) this year’s comp. I feel stronger then I was this time last year and am really psyched to see where my new head space takes me. I have really enjoyed working with and climbing in the Ne2c pro tour completions. I say this only because I have had nothing but good experiences with how the comp is run, from the production to the setting each part of the Nor’easter is well thought out and not only a good time for the competitors but also for each spectators.  After competing for a few years and doing World Cups overseas I have a good knowledge of how comps are run and what attracts people to events. I must say the crew of Eastern Mountain and NE2c have figured out a perfect chemistry.

9/23/11

The morning of the Qualifying round I was up and atum nice and early (5:30) usually I would not be up so early, but my fiancé Jes was working the event and needed to be at ticketing by seven. This gave me the opportunity to see a truly beautiful Vermont sun rise and also to reflect on past competitions and what I have learned throughout the last year of climbing and competing. My verdict was that the only way to do well during a pro competition is to stay relaxed and turn any fear in to energy and focus. The qualifying round went very well and I was able to send every climb within the time required. Only 10 people were getting knocked out before semifinals and I was confident that I could make it to the next round. Fingers were crossed for the weather holing up and for the rain not to fall for the rest of the festival.

9/24/11

All hope was lost as the rain began to fall right before the competition began and Semifinals was canceled in what could only be described as terrible conditions. For the first time in UBC history twenty people made it to finals. This was only after we were told that only the top six people from the first round were going to be in finals. Obviously, this was not fair and all the climbers voiced their opinions with what we thought was the best/appropriate solution. The final decision was that all the competitors were going to move forward and all have a shot at finals. The Semi-final problems were tweaked and as soon as the setters and production team were ready, finals began. It did eliminated three climbs but, it was believed to be the best and most fair option.  It only took a few hours for the weather to clear up and the pads to dry. This was the first competition that I felt super relaxed and approaching the situation with a great head space. It’s great to see my friends whom are also my fellow competitors. Being in ISO with them, warming up, talking and waiting felt like home. We all every get to see each other at competitions so its always a nice reunion.

Finals Problem #1:  I found this climb very technical and very heavy with specific body position and balance. It had a core intensive last move and felt great to look at the problem and work out the best possible beta in my mind and give it a go. I did flash it which set my pace for the competition and brought me to an even more psyched head space. It was great to have fellow friends/competitors around me like Ethan Pringle, Angie Payne, Matt Wilder, Dave Graham and my fiancé Jes front row watching and cheering me on.

Finals Problem #2: Knowing that no competitor has sent this problem and with such stiff competition such as Vasya and Big-Rob whom have gone before me I knew this problem was going to be quiet the challenge. It started with a one handed move to a terrible right hand sloppy ball and worked its way up to a roof which involved 2 hard hand sequences and a heinous hand foot match. It left me more or less pumped towards the finish of the problem where I found myself in a predicament. I either dyno for the finish hold or possibly loose the flash. After what felt like seconds of contemplation and feeling the left hand duel tex crimping, I switched into desperation mode. I grabbed an under cling foot jib on a volume and bumped my left hand to a good crimp. There I realized I was out of sequence, my only option left was to dyno, which I did, and snagged it! I suppose my training in Australia paid off since many problems Nalle, Dave & I did had very similar ending moves. This problem was my second flash which obviously made me smile even more and put me in the running for first place.

Finals Problem #3: With five minutes before climbing on problem #3 I was still pumped and could feel my body becoming super tired. I watched the clock beginning to count down and my only thoughts were about the possibility of having a perfect score and thinking about the people whom have helped me along the way. The buzzer sounded and I turned to see what the talented setting crew of NE2C had in store. The problem itself looked epically-long and involved many hard crimp moves to a 360 turn on a pocket, which I read incorrectly. I took my first fall off of the pocket. After falling again at the same move, I laid down and let the clock run for two minutes as I watched the problem and tried to unravel the beta. With 35 seconds left on the clock I gave my last good burn. I only got a few moves further and then dropped off. Props to Vasya who made that climb look very easy and even more props to my fellow competitors like Rob who finished #3.

As soon as it was over I knew I climb well and never felt as nervous as I did. Jes was right by my side and keeping me calm as I watched the final competitors, like Paul & Ty, climb. I wasn’t sure still if I got first place and no one was giving any information out. Once all climbers finished the production crew had the podiums up in a blink of an eye and I was being pushed into the first place spot with fellow female competitor Angie Payne. I really felt overwhelmed, speechless and just plain psyched. This is the first adult pro competition I have won. Sick. I can’t wait until the next UBC Pro Tour comp!!!

Thank you:

Jon Dory (Dad) reason for my climbing and my biggest fan!

Jes D’Emilio my fiancé for believing in me and loving me so much!

 Lisa Dory (Mom) for always telling me I’m on the right path and my other biggest fan!

Friends and competitors: I just wanted to say thank you for making me feel so relaxed and among friends during and after the competition. It’s always a great joy to hang out with, and climb with such great people.

Australia

As I think about the days leading up to our arrival in Australia I can only imagine what most people in our groups had going through their minds: Where are we staying? How do we get there? Where to purchase food? Where is the watering hole? So many questions up in the air nothing much planned for this last minute trip. As for any other crew I’m sure people would have been freaking out but, we held our composure well.  It could have been really stress full I suppose, but I have to say thanks to our amazing crew down under: Jes, Dave, Nalle, and myself. Before you knew it we rented a sweet IMAX van, food and living accommodations, which turned out to be way better than expected.

   It was really great getting to know Nalle, Dave, Keith, Elly and some locals during this trip. Dave, Nalle and Keith are 3 of the most amazing/enjoyable people I have ever had the opportunity to climb, travel and live with. Not only do we know how to joke around and have fun, we do quite well getting psyched and throwing down like there is no tomorrow. Given the opportunity to climb with the best is something I could only have dreamed of years ago!

Perfect orange walls that extend 55 meters, it’s no wonder I feel so enchanted by the climbing and the massive falls that await me on this old school hard core wall that should have warning labels that say; if your not as bad ass like Chuck Noris then go bouldering!   I also hope to achieve some sort of Australia accent during my time here, Dave and I try sometimes but, most people just think we are from the southern states and make fun of us. I need to say that climbing with a group like this has its moments but, most of the time we have good energy, focus with vision and ethics like very few in the game.

Quite few projects that have been going down, and it’s no thanks to the quick work of Nalle Hukkataival  who is crushing ever thing he sees!  Credit also need to go to Dave who has put up the best looking line of the trip this fair, but most of the time we do the problems one after another. One of the climbs that I have to do next time I go is called Pigeon superstition a problem Nalle put up after two days of effort. This line is one of the harder FAs that have been put down during the trip. The line is really ecstatic, and it’s hard to believe that such a line went unnoticed for this long.

Mt. Zero Log Cabins

After  purchasing the guidebook when arriving to Melbourne we learned about these cabins only 2k from the Grampians. It truly is a home away from home. A very comfortable environment with all the necessities one would need. PRE-CUT firewood delivered daily, laundry, fire pit, BBQ, wood burning heater, hot water, linens, tennis courts and if needed you can even take a jump on the many trampolines around the premise. There is also a pool, however during their winter I opted not to swim. This property is surrounded by tea leaf fields and acres of sheep fields. Magpies (very territorial swooping birds) have become our natural alarm clock and Kangaroos part of our daily drive to the crags. The owners of these cabins are a pair of siblings John & Angela whom have been the most considerate and hospital people I have ever met. They supply us with toilet paper, garbage bags, matched, fire lighters, and are constantly wondering how we are making out, where we’ve been, whats next on the agenda and giving us daily advice on the amazing turistical spots we should visit. i without even hesitating would recommend this sweet lodging.  (WWW.MTZEROLOGCABINS.COM)

On The Beach

3rd day on, ouch. This boulder is one of the first we all looked at in the Grampians and our jaws dropped when we found out this perfect boulder problem was still a project. Located at trackside and was known as the project boulder, it is placed in a stunning location of the Grampians with the Taipan wall towering over and the view of most of the mountain. After a couple visits Dave sent, FA. The climb itself is super unique because there are 2 possible sequences for sending. Both Dave & Nalle sent the problems with two complete different styles and beta. Today was my 3rd day working it. To me, its been more of a challenge executing this problem. I have gotten to the last move 3 times and lost it because I didn’t readjust my knee bar correctly. It’s hands down one of my favorite line in the Grampians.  Today was a bit discouraging, the crew woke up early, all super motivated but, the temperatures however were less then great. I kept greasing and popping off every other hold. I am definitely psyched to accomplish this line and am praying for some artic winds to start blowing.

The following day I decided to return with Nate, Dave, Nalle & Jes.  The conditions seemed perfect and what was feeling like god-awful slimy holds was now sticky. On my first try I was able to take down On The Beach. First try Friday! The friction was perfect and I was beyond psyched to top out this amazing boulder.

A stunning line

Bunadik:

Cherry Picking AKA Death Star is located in Buandik (South Part of the Grampians.) It’s in the new bouldering area we have discovered, right around the bend from the Gallery. You will find enormous boulders one of witch is perched perfectly on a cliff. With a now (after we gave it some TLC) amazing comfortable landing. The boulder is beautifully graphed with many orange colors and a sweet blend of sandstone that looks like granite. This line is by far the most amazing boulder in Buandik. The background  has  mountains of undeveloped boulders full of potential and a sick waterfall that gives the area a surreal feel. This has been one of the more difficult boulders we have found in Buandik. We gave it an 8b grade. The line is technically demanding with difficult reaches and specific foot placement. The name originated from the last move of the climb which involves a dynamic foot swing that we call “the Moon kick.” It’s a must do line when coming to Australia, for sure.

Working the out the beta

World Cup Update

Every climb in every Cup from Canada to Sheffield has taught me something about how to and what to do in Cup situation from the warm up to the five second count down before go time each Cup has been a learning experience. All this experience has brought me closer and closer to one day standing with the best of the best. With only one comp let for me in the tour I am getting psyched to preform at the best of my ability in the Arco World Championships. 

I need to give a big big thanks to Jes/love of my life for helping me every step of the way making sure I have the logistics all worked out, and I have to say that she is a pro and deserves a big party at the end of this for all her efforts.
Climbing World Cups are very unique because the problems that are presented for us are not “hard” its just the aura, the crowd, and the tricky setters that make the climbs difficult to send. World Cup climbing is more of a Head game when your at that level of competition then any thing else. From my start in Canada when I did not even send one climb to now, I know I have learned so much and every Cup I do a little better and make less and less mistakes. I did not put too much pressure on my self this go around, but still wanted to do well, So for me making it past the first round was a big step and one I hope to continue doing. Moving closer and closer tell one day I’m on the top spot with the best is my goal.

World Cups

From the first day I started training for competitions I have always DREAMED about becoming a World Champion and as each year passes I get closer and closer, each year every single comp teaches me something about how the system works and every time I make a mistake or miss something I learn something new. I replay each moment in my head to try and make my self better as a person and as a competition climber.
(Thousands of people showing up for Finals!)
 
Canmore, Canada has to be as close as you can get to being in Switzerland yet you’re still in North America. The unbelievable tall mountains that surround this little town Canmore, an internationally known hot spot for many training mountaineers. No matter in what direction you look, you are surrounded by some of the most amazing faces, cliffs, and peeks that I have ever seen. As for the World Cup, the first day was a total white out, of course, it was dumping snow most of the day “typical Canada” I was told, lol. During the comp I was not able to get past the first round of the but, each go and every problem was a learning experience and a chance to gauge for the whats yet to come.
Vail, Colorado was the last competition I attended which I did significantly better at then in Canmore and for me was a confidence builder! The Teva Mountain Games is one of the largest events of the year and if you were not there then mark it on your calendar for next year because you’re missing out!!!! Vail might be one of the most expensive places to visit, the fast food has the 5 dollar menu instead of a dollar menu lol. The Teva Mountain games are so much fun with many, many events to see from Eukanuba dog retrieving competition to BMX bikers. There is something for everyone and free stuff for everyone that comes. This World Cup attracts some of the best climbers from around the world, Germany, Russia, Austria and Japan! This Event is amazing and inviting for every one. There even is a citizen comp after the World Cup so even if your not a pro you can come and climb on the walls that the pros use.
 
 look for photos from James Hickey and Ben Dory
Next up is Barcelona, Spain. so stay posted…..
DBM

Joes Valley

Some times being spontaneous pays off, like my Joe’s trip this November. I was planing on leaving on the 17th but after a session at the Spot in boulder, Ethan got me psyched and I decided to head out to Joe’s five days early which really payed off when I was able to crush some of my projects quick.


The first day I kinda just walked around and looked at some of the new problems that Jame Emerson had on his website. Mask Of God really stood out to me as a climb I could not live without doing, so The next morning I got up early and went solo to the climb and rapped off and became equated with my new found love, later that day I went back with Ben, this guy who was camped next to me. After working the moves for a bit I was kinda done climbing when Ben pointed out some good beta which gave me a better sequence, after that I fell off the last move and crushed it next go. I also did Man from the Past first try, which is a variation that is also amazing and I highly recommend this boulder.


Later that day after I called my Dad and told him what went down I got psyched again and went to new Joe’s for a late day session. Ghost king is an amazing climb right off the road and takes less then 30 seconds to get there, sending Ghost King second try I got psyched and crushed Ghost of War second try. I have to say it was a great day of climbing and after a rest day I got psyched again and took down the Black Lung on my first session in like 10 tries, Psyched. I also went and did They Call him Jordon the Dino way, which is way sick and after that we had lots of pads so we all tried Lumber Jack which is a kinda high ball V8; amazing.


Then Yesterday I wet back to the Power line Boulder and Did Wind Below which is suck a great climb kinda airy, but so so good. taking a rest day but my brother and the FOCO crew is coming down and will be here soon so we can start are movie.


Here is the video!


Black Lung from Ian Dory on Vimeo.