Alli Rainey Bio

Who has impressed you the most this last year? Climber or Non-climber?
A: Sean Patrick (the founder of HERA) for creating an event that brings rock climbers together to climb for a greater purpose, and also, for being such an example of truly living and giving to others. The pilot of flight 1549. Lynn Hill for bouldering V11/12 at age 47.

Describe a time when someone helped your climbing?
A: Kevin Wilkinson has helped me improve my climbing more than anyone else. Not only did he pinpoint what I was lacking (power), but also, he provided a solution in the form of a solid training program to help me work toward improving in that area. As a result, I’ve seen more climbing improvement in the last year than I had in the previous decade of climbing (I’ve been climbing for 17 years total).

How do you deal with fans chasing you at all times?
A: The firehose is effective when I’m at home. On the road, I often have to resort to swatting them with newspapers and saying, “Bad fans. No.” Booby traps work, too. And disguises. As you can see, I’ve found that it’s most effective to use a combination of tactics, so they never know what to expect.

What do you see as the biggest myth out there about being famous?
A: Am I famous? Oops, I didn’t notice. Or maybe that’s the biggest myth…isn’t the term “famous climber” an oxymoron, anyway?

Describe what you think climbing could do for the world if everyone climbed.
A: Can you even imagine a world catering to climbers? At first thought, it would be AWESOME!!! Roads/good trails to every crag, no access issues whatsoever, climbing-based theme parks, millionaire climbers…imagine if climbing were even like tennis or golf in popularity. Of course, the cliffs/boulders would be overrun and trashed, you’d have to reserve a “tee-time” on any popular route, & you’d probably have to pay to climb anywhere…

On second thought, let’s keep it like it is. Climbing: The few, the proud, the brave… or at least, the ridiculously, insanely, and inexplicably addicted to climbing just because it’s so much more fun than anything else!

Alli

About Alli

Stats
Height: 5’6”
Birthday: September 14th, 1974
Current Location: Ten Sleep, Wyoming
Day Job: Writer / Climbing Coach
Years in the Game: Since 1992
Personal Blog: http://www.allirainey.com

About Me

I started climbing at the end of my senior year of high school, in 1992. We laughed at my friend, Dave, when he bought one of the first bouldering pads ever made for the mass market, maybe in 1993 or 1994. I think it was called The Spot and made by Black Diamond. Still, I bouldered early on in my climbing at a couple little areas in Rumney, as well as at Hammond Pond in Boston. It just wasn’t a sport unto itself quite yet in the eyes of the climbing community at large.

Years later, I’m still a sport climber at heart, but I spend at least four months almost every winter bouldering. It’s a welcome break mentally, it’s easier to stay warm, its way more social, and it’s a great way to build explosive power and train dynamic movement.

In my other life, I’m a professional writer. I write whatever people pay me to write. It’s not very glamorous, but its fun and a great activity for rest days. I also read a ton, with no particular bias except that it has to be interesting to me and of decent quality. I’m totally okay with putting a book down after 50, 100, or even 200 pages if I lose interest. Life’s too short and precious to fritter it away on self-imposed tedium. I like to cook, and I meditate almost every day. My favorite people to climb with are the ones who laugh the most.
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