Introduction
Nestled at the foot of the Eastern Sierra Nevada mountains, Bishop, California, is a bouldering paradise known worldwide for its diverse climbing opportunities. With its unique geological formations, ranging from highball granite monoliths to volcanic tuff boulders, Bishop offers something for climbers of all skill levels. This guide will help you navigate the best spots, seasons, accommodations and tips for an unforgettable bouldering adventure in Bishop.
Brief History of Bouldering in Bishop
Some of the first climbers to explore Bishop, California, were pioneers from the 1970s and 1980s who recognized the area’s rich climbing potential. John Bachar was a notable figure known for his bold free solo ascents and for establishing challenging routes in the Eastern Sierra, including areas around Bishop. Dale Bard also made significant contributions by developing early climbing routes and pushing the technical limits of the sport at the time.
In the development of bouldering specifically, John Sherman played a pivotal role. Often referred to by his nickname “Verm,” he was instrumental in popularizing bouldering in Bishop during the late 1980s and early 1990s. Sherman established numerous classic problems in areas like the Buttermilks and the Happy and Sad Boulders. Other influential climbers such as Ron Kauk and Kevin Thaw also contributed to the early development of climbing in Bishop, helping to cement its status as a premier destination for climbers worldwide.
Why Bishop?
Diverse Climbing Areas: From the towering Buttermilks to the densely packed Happy and Sad Boulders, Bishop’s variety is unmatched.
Quality of Rock: The area boasts high-quality granite and volcanic tuff, providing excellent grip and challenging problems.
Scenic Beauty: Climb with panoramic views of the Sierra Nevada and the Owens Valley.
Great Hang: Lots of fun rest day activities, social places, and good vibes.
Best Time to Visit
Ideal Seasons: Late fall too early spring (October to April) offers cooler temperatures perfect for climbing.
Avoid Summer: Temperatures can exceed 100°F (38°C), making climbing unsafe and unenjoyable.
Guidebook:
BISHOP BOULDERING BY JAMES LUCAS – available at the gear stores Sage to Summit, Mammoth Mountaineering, and Eastside Sports.
Kaya App: This paid app provides an interactive map with pins, information, and beta videos for each boulder.
Main Bouldering Areas
1. The Buttermilks
Overview: Known for its large granite boulders and highball problems, the Buttermilks are a must-visit.
Rock Type: Coarse-grained granite.
Popular Problems:
- The Hunk V2
- Bouldering Pin V6
- Birthday Direct V3
- Go Granny Go V5
- Funky Tut V3
- Iron Man Traverse V4
- High Plains Drifter V7
- Buttermilk Stem V1
- Robinson’s Rubber Tester V0
- Evilution to the Lip V10
Who It’s For: Intermediate to advanced climbers comfortable with height exposure.
2. TableLands
2.1 Happies
Overview: Located in the Volcanic Tablelands, this area offers a dense concentration of problems.
Rock Type: Volcanic tuff.
Popular Problems:
- Solarium V4
- The Hulk V6
- Heavenly Path V1 PG13
- Ketron Classic V4
- Serengeti V5
- Atari V6
- Every Color You Are V6
- Morning Dove White V7
Who It’s For: All levels, with a good mix of easy to hard problems.
2.2 Sad Boulders
Overview: Also in the Volcanic Tablelands, the Sad Boulders are less crowded but equally rewarding.
Rock Type: Volcanic tuff.
Popular Problems:
- Strength in Numbers V5
- Molly V0
- Rio’s Crack V6
- Pow Pow V8
- The Fang V4
Who It’s For: Beginners to advanced climbers.
3. Druids
The approach is anywhere between 25 and 45 minutes up a fairly steep hillside, filtering out the crowds you’d see at the nearby Buttermilks or Happy Boulders. This makes it ideal for busy weekends and holidays.
4. Owen River Gourge – Sport Climbing
The Owens River Gorge is California’s most concentrated sport-climbing area. It is really a year-round crag, although summers can be a bit hot. There are many moderate sport climbs in the sub 5.10 range, but the best gorge climbs seem to be in the 5.10-5.11 range.
5. Way Lake
This bouldering venue has a distinctly Alpine flavor. The area has a large number of problems with good-quality rock.
Accommodation
Camping
Many Bishop area campgrounds sell out, especially during peak travel seasons.
- Free Camping up Buttermilk road near climbing. Please respect no camping signs along certain roads.
- Pleasant Valley Pit Campground: Affordable and popular among climbers. No shade, but just down the road from the Tablelands. First come first serve. $5/per night, no potable water.
- Tri-Country Fairgrounds: Camping in town, first come first serve, bathrooms and showers. Mostly for RV’s with full hook ups. $40/per night.
Lodging
- Hostel Bishop: Popular spot for climbers starting at $30/night. Equipped kitchen, free food & coffee, free pad rentals.
- Hotels and Motels: Available in the town of Bishop.
- Vacation Rentals: Options like cabins and homes for larger groups.
Water
There is a water spigot on the east wall of the Visit Bishop building next to the gas meter where they allow you to fill up your water jugs for free. 690 N Main St. Bishop, CA 93514
Additional Information
Laundry:
Sierra Suds Laundromat
Showers:
- Keough Hot Springs $12
- Hostel Bishop $5
- Bishop Gym: Punch pass available
What to Bring
Climbing Gear:
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk and chalk bag
- Crash pads (rentals available at Sage to Summit)
Essentials:
- Water and snacks
- Sun protection (sunscreen, hat, sunglasses)
- Layers of clothing for temperature changes
- Guidebook: A local climbing guidebook is invaluable
Safety Tips
- Spotters and Pads: Always use crash pads and have a spotter, especially on highball problems.
- Stay Hydrated: The high desert climate can dehydrate you quickly.
- Wildlife Awareness: Be cautious of rattlesnakes and other wildlife.
Rest Day Activities
- Hot Springs:
- Keyough Hot Springs. Close to Bishop.
- Hot Springs off of Benton Crossing Road (45 min drive from Bishop): Wild Willy’s, Hilltop, Crab Cooker & more. You can find these on Google Maps.
- Horse Back Riding
- Bristlecone Forest
- Bishop Twin Theater
- Back Alley Bowl & Grill
Local Amenities
- Gear Shops: Stone to Summit, gear shop & climbing gym. Mammoth Mountaineering Supply Gear Exchange, consignment.
- Stores like Eastside Sports offer gear, guidebooks, and local advice.
- Food and Drink:
- Mountain Rambler: Great spot for a local beer and burger.
- Schats: World famous bakery with breakfast options.
- Black Sheep: Amazing coffee, great lowkey spot for some computer work, get there early if you want a breakfast burrito.
- Looney Bean: Across the street from Black Sheep, more food options for breakfast and lunch.
- Owens Valley Distilling Company: Great cocktails, more low-key than the Rambler.
- Groceries: Vons, Grocery Outlet, Manor Market.
Conclusion
Bishop offers an unparalleled bouldering experience with its unique rock formations and stunning landscapes. Whether you’re ticking off classic problems or exploring new lines, the Eastern Sierra awaits your next visit.
