Hueco Tanks State Park in El Paso, Texas is a destination for climbers around the world. The park features some of the best climbing in North America. The park has over 700 established routes and a diverse array of styles to climb from. Hueco Tanks provides a great variety for any climber looking for an adventure – new or experienced alike! Climbers have climbed at Huecos since 1981 and it’s still going strong today! Check our guide to plan for your trip to Hueco Tanks State Park!
Our Guide will Include:
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Brief History of Climbing in Hueco Tanks
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When to Go
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Where to Stay
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Regulations and Getting a Guide
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Classic Climbs
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Rest Day Activities
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Things to Bring
A Brief History of Climbing in Hueco Tanks:
Hueco Tanks is the birthplace of modern bouldering. It is where the V-Grade was founded by John Shermin. John “Vermin” Sherman arrived at Hueco Tanks in the 1980s. He is known as one of America’s most accomplished climbers. His dedication to the site led him to establish more than 500 routes for people who come from all over just to boulder in this desert environment. However, Hueco Tanks State Park is much more than a bouldering destination.
The rocks in Hueco Tanks have been home to humans for millennia, who left their mark on the area with thousands of rock paintings. Although it’s not unusual to find these types of markings from various time periods throughout this region, the collection found here is remarkable and diverse—from ancient drawings that date back 10 thousand years ago up until as recently as a few hundred years ago when Spanish settlers first arrived in Texas.
When to Go:
The best time to visit is November-March, but if the weather cooperates with you, October and April are good as well. However these months tend to be windy, so keep that in mind. Although it is the desert temperatures can be in the low 30’s, so make sure to bring a puffy!
Where to Stay:
Hueco Tanks State Park
Distance: Inside the Park
Price: Campsites with electricity and water ($16 per night), campsites with water ($12 per night)
Pros: You are inside of the park and right near the climbing, You also get to be first in line for North Mountain walk-in.
Cons: Can’t leave the park after 6 pm because the Park gates physically close.
Hueco Rock Ranch
Distance: 1 mile
Price: camping ($5-$10 per person per night), bunk rooms ($16-$40 per person per night), and private rooms ($35-$70 per person per night)
Pros: Showers, Community Kitchen, wifi, Support the American Alpine Club.
Cons: No Dogs Allowed.
Hueco Hacienda
Distance: 1 mile
Price: bunk rooms ($30 per night), private rooms ($60 per night)
Pros: All house guests have access to the kitchen and living room area, wifi and cellphone service, crash pad rentals, Shower available for non-guests.
Gleatherland
Distance: 3 miles
Price: Private camping ($5 per person per night), RV camping ($15 per night), yurt ($40-$60 per night), and camper rentals ($20-$40 per night)
Pros: Crash pad rentals, dog kennels, located near Send Climbing, wifi available, showers available
Regulations and Getting a Guide
There are four main mountains in Hueco Tanks State Park: North, West, East, East Spur. North mountain is the only area that you can visit “self-guided.” This area requires a reservation as they only allow 70 people on the mountain at at time. The other areas require a guide to visit. There are multiple guide services, listed below.
North Mountain:
Price: $7 entrance fee or $70 year pass
Reservations: Reservations can be made here. Another option is to wait at the gate. Anyone who doesn’t show up to their reservation, or open spots available, they let folks waiting outside take their place. This option can be risky, but often works out if you show up early enough. A thing to note, people camping within the park get first dibs on these unreserved spots.
West, East, East Spur:
Price: $25-$50
To climb on West, East, East Spur you will need a guide. Listed below are the guide services. Requesting a tour or jumping on an existing tour is pretty simple on each site! Volunteer Guides are also available but less reliable. Request a volunteer tour by calling (915) 849-6684 before your visit. Tours are Wednesday through Sunday, if a guide is available.
Guide Services:
Classic Climbs
Here are some must do climbs if you visit Hueco Tanks State Park!
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2
Ghetto Simulator
Girls of Juarez
Hobbit in a Blender
Rest Day Activities
- White Sands National Park – Beautiful National Park in New Mexico
- Check out El Paso – El Paso is full of life and culture!
- Take a Rock Art Tour – See what else Hueco Tanks has to offer!
What to Bring
- Crash Pad – A bouldering necessity. Two to three pads will give you plenty of coverage for many climbs.
- Knee Pad – So many knee bars in Hueco, check out Send Climbing to get yours!
- Chalk – Keep those sweaty paws dry!
- Climbing Brush – Brush your tick marks and keep the holds clean!
